Kalkan is a classic yet cosmopolitan harbour town on the southwest coast of Turkey and within easy reach of Dalaman airport. A labyrinth of cobbled passageways and pretty Greek-Ottman architecture rises from a picturesque waterfront setting.
The town is small and sophisticated, well known for its elegant roof-terrace restaurants and laid back beach clubs. Dining options are bottomless in Kalkan and healthy competition has ensured unique and tasteful décor as well as an organic experience. The views in Kalkan are stunning, behind the town is framed by the foothills of the Taurus Mountain range and in front the azure Mediterranean Sea glistens. From some vantage points its even possible to see the Greek island of Castellorizo.
Hours can be enjoyed soaking up the local atmosphere on the public pebble beach. Followed by a wander just behind the seafront to peruse the leather shops, pestemal boutiques and artisan ceramics. A vibrant weekly market is held on a Thursday enticing all who pass with their foray of goods. The finest local produce can be found, so if you are thinking of barbecuing and maybe making your own meze its worth heading in early to get the best fish, wild herbs and vegetables of the day. There is also an array of stalls selling electrical goods, clothing, books and knick-knacks.
You should not miss a day or evening at sea on a boat. This is arguably the finest holiday experience when in Turkey. Around the Kas and Kalkan shoreline are numerous uninhabited picturesque islands, secret coves, hidden caves and empty beaches waiting to be explored. By day, the turquoise water gleams with a golden shimmer and by nightfall the phosphorescence dazzles. Relax aboard and enjoy a lazy day pootling, spoilt with sun, sea and exceptional cuisine.
Kalkan rests in the heart of the Lycian region and the area is steeped in artefacts from this dynasty. The most distinctive being rock-tombs, usually carved into the cliff face and found in clusters. They stretch all the way from Antalya to Fethiye. Six of the former principal Lycian cities lay as they fell and can be explored on day trips from Kalkan.
The entire region is bursting with gorgeous scenery, wildlife and colourful history. There are also some superb beaches either side of Kalkan which warrant a visit. While the excellent climate lends itself to being a sun worshippers paradise, there is plenty to see and do should you want more than a relaxing holiday by the pool.
The Region
Kalkan has become a boutique resort, with cobbled streets and converted Greek houses, which belonged to the Greek merchants before the exchange of population in the 1920’s. Once quiet fishing harbour, these days you are more likely to see traditional wooden gulets taking tourists to soak up rays on the sparkling turquoise Mediterranean. A boat trip is a must-do, from the boat you can snorkel and usually a delicious lunch is prepared on board. Keen walkers should check out the Lycian way for designated walking paths in the area.
You cannot come to this area without spending some time exploring the many Lycian sights, such as Xanthos, Patara, Myra or the sunken city of Kekova.
Patara is said to be where democracy started (they excavated a stone voting block) and is also said to be the birthplace of St Nicholas, who became bishop at nearby Myra. The ruins here include an ancient theatre, city walls, government building, and agora. The lighthouse on the site is said to be the earliest of its kind. Visit Patara in the late afternoon and finish the trip with a drink on the sandy beach watching the amazing sunset.
The Saklikent Gorge is a great place to visit, especially if you want to cool off in the fresh waters whilst walking up the gorge. For the more energetic there are rafts and rings to ride the flowing waters. Further down you can enjoy a day canoeing toward the beach.
Islamlar sits 8 km above Kalkan. Once the place Kalkan folk went to cool off at one of the trout farms built to make use of the mountain’s springs. Today Islamlar houses many a villa, enjoyed by Istanbul Turks who prefer a holiday in slightly cooler and cleaner air. Here the locals grow grapes and pomegranates, but you’ll mainly see the men sat gossiping next to the local teahouse. The trout farms remain a place to come for a wonderful fresh meal, or a breakfast consisting of fresh local fare. The rocket will be the freshest and most tasty you’ve ever had; and the fresh chips cooked in olive oil take some beating.
By night both Kalkan and Kas come alive. Kas has more of a bohemian feel, people ambling through the cobbled streets, passing the ancient tomb in the street, haggling for textiles, carpets and other goodies, maybe stopping for the traditional Turkish ‘maras’ ice cream, a tulip-shaped glass of tea or a wonderful kebab in the shadow of the mosque. Most of the villas in Kas are just out of town on the Cukurbag Peninsula. A reasonable (5km) taxi or Dolmus (local bus) ride into town. Be sure to try the Piyaz, a white bean salad with tahini sauce.
Travelling along the coast towards Kalkan you pass the modern marina, the children’s beach park (run by the local hotel school) and halfway to Kalkan the stunning Kaputas Beach, cut in a gorge with all different shades of turquoise in the sea.
Kalkan is a more sophisticated resort, with the villas built onto the mountainside. Evening are spent enjoying the rooftop restaurants, perched on the top of the old ‘konak’ houses. Then wandering to a seaside bar for a cocktail, after shopping for glass lanterns, Iznik pottery, handbags or pestemel towels. Do visit the ‘pastane’, local patisseries which do the most delicious morning pastries and you must try the ‘Gozleme’ pancakes at the Thursday market.
Other things to do in the area include scuba diving as the visibility is excellent, paragliding, horseriding on Patara Beach or kayaking around the sunken ruins at Kekova.
