With its treasure trove of cobbled streets, Ottoman-Greek architecture, laid back beach clubs and glamorous roof top restaurants-Kalkan is a great pick for a multi-generational family holiday, intimate escape or group of friends travelling together.
Delve beyond the initial first attraction and discover absolute authenticity. Make time to experience the local heritage, sleepy mountain villages sit out of sight inland. A few of the closest are Islamar, Saribelen and Bezirgan. The natural scenery is spectacular and the culture thought provoking. These hidden corners are where a true taste of Turkey can be enjoyed. Many hours can be squandered in tiny village shops where they sell the most authentic and delicious rose-water Turkish Delight and heady scented spices. Visit simple lokanta style restaurants and eat local delicacies at local prices. Make time to stop off at a cay garden and listen to the hum of activity, the fluttering of cards, clattering of dice, as well of course as the slurping of Turkish Cay.
The region is a haven for ramblers, historical and archaeological enthusiasts. The Lycian Way Walking Trail has been considered one of the ten best walks in the world. This 300 mile stretch is an ancient trail and mule road. On foot, discover many remote Lycian rock tombs, roman roads, aqueducts and ancient classical sites accompanied by dramatic views from virtually every direction. Ancient sites are in abundance in this region and with so many within a short drive of Kalkan it is easy to combine a morning at perhaps Tlos with an afternoon relaxing by the pool.
Back to the coast, one of the most sought after holiday experiences in Turkey is to cruise on a traditional wooden gulet. A truly relaxing journey with the freedom to set your own pace. Whether the decision is to embark in Kalkan, Kas or even Kekova a succession of memorable seascapes await, remote coves, rugged peninsulas, little villages and thriving harbour towns. There are many stops for swimming, snorkelling and some vessels even have non-motorised water sports. Lunch is usually served aboard, freshly prepared in the galley, and raved about as one of the holiday culinary highlights.
On those days when relaxing hangtime is all that is needed, there are many waterside options to pick from. Bare-foot beach clubs pepper the shoreline and offer an upmarket experience with lots of facilities making it easy to relax by the water’s edge. If an ‘actual beach’ is more enticing than bathing platforms, there is the public beach in the centre. Within a 15 minute drive of Kalkan, Kaputas and Patara are worthy of expedition. Both justly famous, Kaputas is often featured on the front of travel guides for its luminous turquoise waters and Patara celebrated for its classical ancient site and never ending golden sands.
The Region
Kalkan has become a boutique resort, with cobbled streets and converted Greek houses, which belonged to the Greek merchants before the exchange of population in the 1920’s. Once quiet fishing harbour, these days you are more likely to see traditional wooden gulets taking tourists to soak up rays on the sparkling turquoise Mediterranean. A boat trip is a must-do, from the boat you can snorkel and usually a delicious lunch is prepared on board. Keen walkers should check out the Lycian way for designated walking paths in the area.
You cannot come to this area without spending some time exploring the many Lycian sights, such as Xanthos, Patara, Myra or the sunken city of Kekova.
Patara is said to be where democracy started (they excavated a stone voting block) and is also said to be the birthplace of St Nicholas, who became bishop at nearby Myra. The ruins here include an ancient theatre, city walls, government building, and agora. The lighthouse on the site is said to be the earliest of its kind. Visit Patara in the late afternoon and finish the trip with a drink on the sandy beach watching the amazing sunset.
The Saklikent Gorge is a great place to visit, especially if you want to cool off in the fresh waters whilst walking up the gorge. For the more energetic there are rafts and rings to ride the flowing waters. Further down you can enjoy a day canoeing toward the beach.
Islamlar sits 8 km above Kalkan. Once the place Kalkan folk went to cool off at one of the trout farms built to make use of the mountain’s springs. Today Islamlar houses many a villa, enjoyed by Istanbul Turks who prefer a holiday in slightly cooler and cleaner air. Here the locals grow grapes and pomegranates, but you’ll mainly see the men sat gossiping next to the local teahouse. The trout farms remain a place to come for a wonderful fresh meal, or a breakfast consisting of fresh local fare. The rocket will be the freshest and most tasty you’ve ever had; and the fresh chips cooked in olive oil take some beating.
By night both Kalkan and Kas come alive. Kas has more of a bohemian feel, people ambling through the cobbled streets, passing the ancient tomb in the street, haggling for textiles, carpets and other goodies, maybe stopping for the traditional Turkish ‘maras’ ice cream, a tulip-shaped glass of tea or a wonderful kebab in the shadow of the mosque. Most of the villas in Kas are just out of town on the Cukurbag Peninsula. A reasonable (5km) taxi or Dolmus (local bus) ride into town. Be sure to try the Piyaz, a white bean salad with tahini sauce.
Travelling along the coast towards Kalkan you pass the modern marina, the children’s beach park (run by the local hotel school) and halfway to Kalkan the stunning Kaputas Beach, cut in a gorge with all different shades of turquoise in the sea.
Kalkan is a more sophisticated resort, with the villas built onto the mountainside. Evening are spent enjoying the rooftop restaurants, perched on the top of the old ‘konak’ houses. Then wandering to a seaside bar for a cocktail, after shopping for glass lanterns, Iznik pottery, handbags or pestemel towels. Do visit the ‘pastane’, local patisseries which do the most delicious morning pastries and you must try the ‘Gozleme’ pancakes at the Thursday market.
Other things to do in the area include scuba diving as the visibility is excellent, paragliding, horseriding on Patara Beach or kayaking around the sunken ruins at Kekova.
