Winding streets lined with green-shuttered, whitewashed houses, boutiques, galleries and a small but picturesque port all help to keep Ars en Ré on France’s official list of plus beaux villages. The sleepy centre is gorgeous, with a huge stone church whose black and white spire serves as a nautical day mark. Take a relaxed fishing excursion or boat ride, or happily meander around side streets that feature boutique galleries, flower shops, artisanal bakers and so many delightful spots for photos. You’ll find wonderful seafood restaurants and cafés, with seating in the cobbled village square, where you can relax and immerse yourself in the refined beauty of this historic town.
Located in the quieter southwest of Ile de Ré, Ars en Ré is a superb base for biking around an island whose sixty miles of mainly car-free cycling routes bring thousands of visitors back each year. Easy terrains, salt beds, oyster farms and marshland typify the local landscape, and a wealth of picturesque and varied routes across the whole island are quickly accessible from Ars en Ré. Hire bikes from one of the rental outlets in the village, then head out and explore the natural delights of this fabulous island.
One superb journey is the seven-kilometre ride north to Phare des Baleines, where if you climb the steps of the iconic lighthouse, you’ll be able to see the black tip of the spire back at Ars en Ré, as well as enjoying spectacular views across the coastline and village of Portes en Ré. There are huge stretches of sandy beach here, fabulous seafood restaurants, and the chance to partake in some wave-enhanced summer watersports, or even a motorboat ride.
The Region
Vast beaches, cycling paths, salt marshes, kite-surfing, pretty villages and fine seafood - Île de Ré is a small island on France’s Atlantic coast with endless opportunities for every generation.
The island is easily reached via the 3km long bridge from the mainland, Pont de l'île de Ré, only minutes from La Rochelle Airport. If arriving by train, Gare La Rochelle is less than 3 hours from Paris-Montparnasse via TGV whilst the ferry ports of Saint-Malo, Caen-Ouistreham and Le Havre are easily reached by car.
Be charmed by the island’s main town, Saint-Martin-de-Ré, steeped in history with its half-timbered houses, flower-filled lanes and Vauban citadel – indeed, the fortifications are now a UNESCO World Heritage site (guided tours can be arranged). Come across some the best ice-cream on the island at La Martinière by the bustling harbour. Stroll up to Église Saint-Martin de Ré and admire the panoramic views from its historic belltower.
Other idyllic villages include La Flotte with its characterful market and Ars en Ré surrounded by salt marshes, both classified as two of France’s ‘Plus Beaux Villages’. There’s another great market at Le Bois Plage en Ré, a lovely little town with long sandy beaches, whilst Les Portes-en-Ré is another jewel of the island next to vast salt marshes and sandy shores. The 18-hole Golf de Trousse Chemise is just south of Les Portes-en-Ré and there is a superb cycling trail through the pine forest towards the iconic Phare des Baleines for more stunning views.
Indeed, the island is famous for its cycling routes thanks to dedicated trails through vineyards, forests and salt marshes. The island is a paradise for watersport enthusiasts with kite-surfing, jet-skiing and surfing in the ocean as well as canoeing, kayaking and paddle-boarding through the marshes, a fantastic way to appreciate the island’s diverse flora and fauna.
Île de Ré’s gastronomy is also to be celebrated – discover seasonal delights such as the island’s highly regarded potatoes, cheese, samphire, honey, shellfish and of course a range of natural salt products. Since the 13th century the island has cultivated vines and there are some excellent wines to try. Finally, don’t miss experiencing the oyster huts dotted across the island, often accompanied by a glass of chilled white wine of course.
