The delightful Gumruk Evi can be found in the landmark 1854 Customs House, in the heart of the old town of the exclusive holiday resort of Kalkan, on Turkey’s Turquoise Coast. It’s a one hundred and twenty-five kilometre drive through the Turkish countryside from Dalaman International Airport to your unique holiday home. The villa is within sight of the sea, the nearest public beach is a short walk away, beach clubs populate the coastline, and boats leave the harbour daily for fabulous fun days on the ocean waves.
The charming old town of Kalkan has cobbled streets, traditional whitewashed houses festooned in colourful bougainvillaea, and home to a reputed one hundred and fifty restaurants, cafes, and bars, enticing souvenir shops, and designer brand stores stuffed with objects of desire. After dark, dine in one of the famous rooftop restaurants with stunning harbour and sea views, sampling traditional Turkish delights and international cuisine. A five-minute walk into Kalkan’s new town will take you to supermarkets, banks, and a local Thursday market.
Travel further afield to the stunning Kaputas Beach, set in a natural gorge, or take a trip to Patara, where you will find twenty kilometres of unspoilt golden sands and a protected area for the hatching Caretta Caretta turtles. Patara also boasts an archaeological site over two thousand years old, with two ancient amphitheatres and the most stunning sunsets, best seen from the ever-changing sand dunes.
The Lycian Way cuts through Kalkan, trek the trail taking you through major archaeological sites, local villages, dramatic coastlines, and the areas’ flora and fauna. Whilst the Ottoman town of Kas is a twenty-five minute drive along one of the world’s most stunning coastlines.
The Region
Kalkan has become a boutique resort, with cobbled streets and converted Greek houses, which belonged to the Greek merchants before the exchange of population in the 1920’s. Once quiet fishing harbour, these days you are more likely to see traditional wooden gulets taking tourists to soak up rays on the sparkling turquoise Mediterranean. A boat trip is a must-do, from the boat you can snorkel and usually a delicious lunch is prepared on board. Keen walkers should check out the Lycian way for designated walking paths in the area.
You cannot come to this area without spending some time exploring the many Lycian sights, such as Xanthos, Patara, Myra or the sunken city of Kekova.
Patara is said to be where democracy started (they excavated a stone voting block) and is also said to be the birthplace of St Nicholas, who became bishop at nearby Myra. The ruins here include an ancient theatre, city walls, government building, and agora. The lighthouse on the site is said to be the earliest of its kind. Visit Patara in the late afternoon and finish the trip with a drink on the sandy beach watching the amazing sunset.
The Saklikent Gorge is a great place to visit, especially if you want to cool off in the fresh waters whilst walking up the gorge. For the more energetic there are rafts and rings to ride the flowing waters. Further down you can enjoy a day canoeing toward the beach.
Islamlar sits 8 km above Kalkan. Once the place Kalkan folk went to cool off at one of the trout farms built to make use of the mountain’s springs. Today Islamlar houses many a villa, enjoyed by Istanbul Turks who prefer a holiday in slightly cooler and cleaner air. Here the locals grow grapes and pomegranates, but you’ll mainly see the men sat gossiping next to the local teahouse. The trout farms remain a place to come for a wonderful fresh meal, or a breakfast consisting of fresh local fare. The rocket will be the freshest and most tasty you’ve ever had; and the fresh chips cooked in olive oil take some beating.
By night both Kalkan and Kas come alive. Kas has more of a bohemian feel, people ambling through the cobbled streets, passing the ancient tomb in the street, haggling for textiles, carpets and other goodies, maybe stopping for the traditional Turkish ‘maras’ ice cream, a tulip-shaped glass of tea or a wonderful kebab in the shadow of the mosque. Most of the villas in Kas are just out of town on the Cukurbag Peninsula. A reasonable (5km) taxi or Dolmus (local bus) ride into town. Be sure to try the Piyaz, a white bean salad with tahini sauce.
Travelling along the coast towards Kalkan you pass the modern marina, the children’s beach park (run by the local hotel school) and halfway to Kalkan the stunning Kaputas Beach, cut in a gorge with all different shades of turquoise in the sea.
Kalkan is a more sophisticated resort, with the villas built onto the mountainside. Evening are spent enjoying the rooftop restaurants, perched on the top of the old ‘konak’ houses. Then wandering to a seaside bar for a cocktail, after shopping for glass lanterns, Iznik pottery, handbags or pestemel towels. Do visit the ‘pastane’, local patisseries which do the most delicious morning pastries and you must try the ‘Gozleme’ pancakes at the Thursday market.
Other things to do in the area include scuba diving as the visibility is excellent, paragliding, horseriding on Patara Beach or kayaking around the sunken ruins at Kekova.
